Pores and breakouts: what causes them and how to build a routine

Pores and breakouts do not mean your skin is dirty. The main cause is a clogged hair follicle, and the right care can help manage it, though not overnight.

A drawn illustration, not a photo of real skin.

What happens in the skin

A pimple forms when a hair follicle (the inside of a pore) gets clogged with excess oil and dead skin cells. This is how the NHS describes it. Bacteria can start to grow in the clogged follicle, which leads to inflammation and pus.

There are several causes, and they add up:

• hormonal changes during puberty, menstruation, pregnancy and menopause (NHS);
• some medicines and greasy products applied to the skin (NHS);
• genetics: the risk is higher if a close relative has had deep, scarring acne (American Academy of Dermatology, AAD);
• some health conditions, for example polycystic ovary syndrome and rosacea (NHS).

Acne is not limited to the teenage years. According to the AAD, acne is the most common skin condition in the US, and about 5% of women still have acne in their 40s. If you have struggled with breakouts as an adult, that is not unusual.

Myths and common care mistakes

Most care mistakes mean doing too much, too fast. The AAD lists 10 habits that can make acne worse; these five come up most often:

• Washing all day. Wash your face twice a day, morning and evening, and also after sweating.
• Scrubbing and drying out. A gentle cleanser and fingertips are better than scrubbing; the NHS warns that scrubbing can irritate the skin and make acne worse. The drying effect of alcohol and astringents does not help either.
• Picking at pimples. The AAD warns that squeezing can push material deeper and increase inflammation and the risk of scarring.
• Sleeping in makeup. Makeup should be washed off every evening.
• Switching products every week. The AAD recommends using one product for 6 to 8 weeks before judging it; full clearing usually takes 3 to 4 months.

One more thing: the AAD recommends choosing makeup, sunscreen and skin care products labelled "non-comedogenic", which means they are made not to clog pores.

What the research says about ingredients

The best-known over-the-counter ingredient for breakouts is salicylic acid (BHA), but the evidence base for cosmetic products is modest.

Mayo Clinic describes salicylic acid (0.5 to 2%) as an ingredient that helps unclog pores and prevent new pimples. Common mild side effects are slight stinging and irritation. Do not expect results overnight: the AAD recommends using one product for 6 to 8 weeks before judging it, and Mayo Clinic recommends seeing a healthcare professional or dermatologist if there is no improvement after 2 to 3 months.

There is also a systematic review covering salicylic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide). It found that the studies are small and the evidence is of low or very low quality: no clear benefit or harm was seen compared with medicines, and the authors call for more comparative studies. So these are reasonable supporting ingredients, but not a replacement for treatment.

Two clarifications about the products in the Clean Slate ritual:

• COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid uses betaine salicylate as its BHA, which is described as an alternative to salicylic acid (Skinsort). There is less direct evidence for it than for salicylic acid, and the source does not give the concentration. The formula also contains niacinamide and sodium hyaluronate.
• The AAD recommends choosing sunscreen and moisturiser labelled "non-comedogenic" so they do not clog pores.

How to build a routine

The routine is simple: cleanse gently, moisturise, protect from the sun, and add a BHA step 2 to 3 times a week. More steps will not give faster results.

Three rules that help avoid irritation:

• Add one new product at a time and give it 6 to 8 weeks (AAD).
• Apply the product in a thin layer over the whole area where breakouts appear (forehead, nose, chin), not only on visible pimples (AAD).
• If your skin stings, reddens or peels, use BHA less often and do not add new products.

The solution: the Clean Slate ritual

The Abby Clean Slate ritual puts the routine above together in five steps, using products chosen for pore-prone, breakout-prone skin. It is not a medicine and does not replace a dermatologist; it is a solid foundation for daily care.

The set comes with a free gift: the Innisfree Heartleaf Energy Mask. The set is 10% cheaper than buying the same products separately.

As a rough guide, with daily use the cream and the sunscreen last about 30 days; the other products last longer (the cleansing foam about 50 days, the toner about 40, the BHA about 115). The AAD recommends judging results after 6 to 8 weeks, so the cream and sunscreen usually need to be repurchased before that time is up. The estimate is approximate and usage varies from person to person.

When to see a dermatologist

Cosmetics are not always enough. The AAD recommends seeing a dermatologist if acne is deep or painful, if you are not sure what type of pimples you have, or if acne gets worse or does not improve, because untreated acne can leave scars. Mayo Clinic adds that if there is no improvement after 2 to 3 months, it is worth talking to a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Sources

• NHS: Acne causes
• AAD: Acne overview
• AAD: 10 skin care habits that can worsen acne
• Mayo Clinic: Nonprescription acne treatment
• Topical azelaic acid, salicylic acid, nicotinamide, sulphur, zinc and fruit acid for acne (systematic review)
• Skinsort: COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid

This article is general educational material and does not replace medical advice.